Day Two – Meeting a Giant
As part of our three-night Northland adventure in Charly the Campervan, New Zealand’s only wheelchair-accessible campervan available for hire, we were determined to include some of the region’s most iconic attractions in our itinerary.
This trip was about more than simply exploring Northland. We wanted to find out whether campervan travel with Finlay was genuinely doable.
Charly has been specifically designed for wheelchair users who can transfer independently and require minimal assistance. Finlay, however, has high and complex support needs, uses a powerchair full-time, and requires support with most aspects of daily living. That made us curious. Could Charly work for a family like ours? Would the accessible features meet the needs of someone requiring a higher level of support? And would campervan travel open up opportunities that are often difficult to access when travelling with a powerchair user?
Our Northland itinerary was designed around a mix of accessible attractions, overnight stops and experiences that would allow us to put Charly to the test in real-world conditions. Ultimately, all of these adventures will form part of our full review of travelling in Charly the Campervan, but some places deserve a story of their own.
Tāne Mahuta is one of those places.
After spending the previous day exploring the Kauri Museum, we had originally hoped to continue on and visit Tāne Mahuta. However, winter daylight was fading quickly, and persistent rain had begun to set in. Rather than rush the experience, we decided to spend the night at Kauri Coast TOP 10 Holiday Park and leave our visit to New Zealand’s most famous kauri tree for the following morning.
Looking back, it was absolutely the right decision.
One of the benefits of travelling by campervan is the flexibility it gives you. Rather than feeling pressured to stick rigidly to an itinerary, we could adapt our plans around the weather, slow the pace down, and make the most of the experiences that mattered most.
The following morning looked far more promising. Finlay was keen to spend some time outdoors exploring in his powerchair after a day of travelling, and we were all looking forward to finally meeting New Zealand’s largest living kauri tree.
We had also hoped to visit Kai Iwi Lakes later that day, but with low cloud still hanging over parts of Northland, we decided to save that adventure for another trip and focus our attention on Tāne Mahuta.
From Kauri Coast TOP 10 Holiday Park, it was an easy drive through the magnificent Waipoua Forest. The road winds through towering native bush, and although it narrows in places, the journey itself feels like part of the experience. Around every corner, you are reminded that this is one of New Zealand’s most significant remaining kauri forests.
Of course, no Northland road trip would be complete without a few unexpected traffic delays.
As we made our way through the forest, we came across several groups of cattle wandering along and across the road. Progress slowed to a crawl as they casually took ownership of the highway, seemingly in no hurry to be anywhere at all.
Finlay was absolutely transfixed.
He sat watching them intently through the campervan windows as they meandered past, completely unfazed by the vehicles waiting patiently behind them. It was one of those unplanned moments that ends up becoming a highlight of the journey. While we were focused on reaching Tāne Mahuta, Finlay was quite content enjoying an impromptu Northland cattle parade.
As we drove deeper into the forest, anticipation began to build. We had seen photographs. We had read the stories. But nothing quite prepares you for the opportunity to stand beneath a living giant that has watched over this forest for more than a thousand years.
Arriving early in the morning meant there was plenty of room to park Charly. The car park sits directly off State Highway 12 and provides easy access to the walk entrance. For us, travelling in a larger wheelchair-accessible campervan, having plenty of space to manoeuvre, unload Finlay’s powerchair and get organised before setting off made the start of the experience stress-free.
Accessible Kauri Dieback Station
One of the first things I wanted to check was whether the kauri dieback cleaning station was accessible.
This is not something I take for granted. Over the years I have encountered several cleaning stations that create barriers for wheelchair users, despite being installed to protect environments that everyone should be able to enjoy.
Thankfully, Tāne Mahuta passed the test.
Visitors enter through a dedicated cleaning station where footwear, wheels and equipment can be disinfected before entering the forest. A large blue sanitising mat releases disinfectant as you travel across it, helping prevent the spread of kauri dieback disease.
The giant kauri trees of Waipoua are under threat from this devastating soil-borne disease, making these cleaning stations an essential part of protecting the forest.
The station was fully accessible for Finlay’s powerchair, and staff were nearby should anyone require assistance.
Entering the Forest
As we started our walk, the rain still lingered in the canopy above us. We moved slowly at first, hoping the weather would improve.
Then, as often happens in Northland, the clouds suddenly opened.
Not with more rain, but with a brief patch of brightness.
That was all the encouragement we needed.
The Tāne Mahuta Walk is only around 170 metres return, making it one of the most accessible opportunities in New Zealand to experience an ancient kauri forest.
Almost immediately the sounds of traffic faded away, replaced by birdsong and the gentle trickle of water flowing through the forest floor.
A Track Designed for Accessibility and Conservation
One of the most impressive aspects of the upgraded walk is how accessibility and environmental protection have been woven together.
Years of travelling with Finlay have taught me that a path can be technically accessible without necessarily being comfortable to use. What stood out at Tāne Mahuta was that the design team appears to have considered both.
Rather than relying on a single path surface, several different materials have been used to protect the forest while creating a comfortable experience for visitors.
Throughout sections of the walk we travelled across elevated composite grid walkways. At first glance these surfaces look almost like concrete, but they are actually permeable grating panels designed to allow sunlight, rainfall, air and leaf litter to continue reaching the forest floor below. This is particularly important in an environment where protecting the shallow and sensitive root systems of the surrounding kauri trees is critical.
From an accessibility perspective, these surfaces performed exceptionally well. The small grid openings were narrow enough that Finlay’s powerchair rolled smoothly across them without wheels catching or dropping into gaps. Walking sticks, crutches and mobility scooters would also benefit from the stable and predictable surface. The sections we encountered appeared to be around 1.8–2 metres wide, providing plenty of room for wheelchair users and pedestrians to comfortably pass one another.
The route also incorporates generous timber boardwalk sections, which I estimate to be approximately 1.6–1.7 metres wide. This width allows most wheelchairs, mobility scooters and pedestrians to share the space comfortably and helps create a more relaxed experience when the track is busy.
Despite visiting during wet weather, I was impressed by how secure the boardwalk felt under both feet and wheels. Looking more closely, I noticed recessed anti-slip aggregate strips incorporated into the timber decking. Unlike traditional raised anti-slip strips or metal treads that can create vibration and jolting for wheelchair users, these textured strips sit flush within the timber surface.
Recessed anti-slip strips provide grip in wet conditions without creating a rough ride for wheelchair users.
It is a small design detail, but one that makes a noticeable difference. The result is excellent grip in wet conditions without creating the rough ride that often accompanies older boardwalk designs. Finlay’s powerchair travelled smoothly along the route, allowing us to focus on enjoying the forest rather than navigating obstacles.
As someone who regularly reviews accessible destinations, I found myself appreciating how the different surfaces worked together. The elevated boardwalks, permeable grating systems, wide pathways and thoughtful slip-resistant treatments demonstrate that accessibility and conservation do not have to compete with one another. In fact, Tāne Mahuta is one of the best examples I have seen of the two working hand in hand.
Meeting Tāne Mahuta
And then, around a gentle bend in the pathway, we saw him.
Tāne Mahuta.
The Lord of the Forest.
No matter how many photographs you have seen beforehand, nothing quite prepares you for standing beneath New Zealand’s largest known living kauri tree.
Estimated to be between 1,250 and 1,500 years old, Tāne Mahuta stands more than 51 metres tall and has a trunk girth of nearly 14 metres.
In Māori tradition, Tāne is the son of Ranginui, the Sky Father, and Papatūānuku, the Earth Mother. He is the atua who separated his parents, bringing light into the world and clothing his mother with the forests of Aotearoa.
Standing beneath his towering canopy, it is impossible not to feel humbled.
As we stood taking it all in, I found myself reflecting on a conversation we had earlier with one of the guides stationed along the track. He explained that while visitors are there to answer questions and share knowledge about the forest, they also play an important role in helping protect Tāne Mahuta.
Surprisingly, there are still regular attempts by people to cross barriers, touch the tree, and even climb it. The guide told us that incidents occur almost every week, which is why security cameras monitor the area and staff maintain a presence on site.
It seemed difficult to comprehend. Standing before a tree that has witnessed more than a millennium of history, my overwhelming feeling was one of respect. Yet the conversation highlighted just how important the protective measures around Tāne Mahuta really are. The viewing platforms, barriers, cleaning stations and ongoing monitoring are not there to restrict visitors, but to ensure this extraordinary taonga survives for generations to come.
There are several viewing opportunities along the route, including seating areas where visitors can pause and take in the scale of this remarkable tree. The accessible viewing platforms provide an opportunity to appreciate both the immense trunk and the towering canopy above, while still maintaining a respectful distance from the tree’s sensitive root zone.
For us, the experience was less about getting close to Tāne Mahuta and more about simply being present with him.
Watching Finlay and Rosie standing together beneath the canopy, looking up in quiet amazement, reminded me why accessible journeys matter so much. They create opportunities to share experiences, build memories, and connect with places that are important to all New Zealanders.
The scale, the silence, and the knowledge that this giant has stood here for more than a thousand years made it one of the most memorable moments of our Northland journey.
Leaving the Forest
After spending time admiring Tāne Mahuta, we slowly made our way back towards the entrance.
Before leaving, all visitors once again pass through a cleaning station to help protect the forest from disease.
Directly across the road we also found an accessible toilet facility, making the site even more practical for wheelchair users and families travelling through the region.
For many visitors this might seem like a small detail, but accessible toilets can make the difference between being able to enjoy an experience independently or not being able to visit at all.
Final Thoughts
For us, Tāne Mahuta was one of the highlights of our Northland road trip.
The walk demonstrates that accessibility and conservation do not need to compete with one another. Through innovative track design, accessible infrastructure and thoughtful environmental management, visitors of all abilities can experience one of Aotearoa’s most significant natural treasures.
Even on a wet day, Finlay was able to enjoy the experience comfortably in his powerchair.
And for a family that has spent many years seeking out accessible adventures across New Zealand, that is exactly what great inclusive design should achieve.
Be sure to follow along as I share more from our Northland adventure, including our visit to the Kauri Museum, our time exploring Whangārei, and, of course, my full review of travelling in Charly the Campervan, New Zealand’s only wheelchair-accessible campervan available for hire.